Reptile Keeping For Beginners

In this article we will briefly go over the basic needs of most reptiles, to give a background on how to keep reptiles, before exploring the ways in which you were in some subjects such as nutrition because of the large variability between species concerned are governed.

HEATING

Humidity Control

This is with almost all reptiles in captivity in England universal. Our climate supports many species of native reptiles from snakes viper, but the species commonly kept as petsusually are made in very hot climates, and so additional heating. But is not simply a matter of maintaining the nursery is a radiator!

All reptiles are cold blooded so they can not control their body temperature regardless of their environment, how we do it. The only way to have some control over their body temperature is to move from warm areas to cold areas and vice versa. So we need to provide a temperature gradient. This is obtained by heating one side of the finished productVivarium to create a hot spot and leaving the other side relatively cold. The temperatures needed for hot spots and cool end varies from species to species, so this should be explored.

Heating methods

There are several methods that can be used for the preparation of this temperature gradient in the nursery. By far the most important way for beginners is a carpet base. A heat mat is a thin electric that you can place in the nursery or in some casesright side of the nursery (be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions). A block heater usually cover about one third of the surface on one side of the nursery. Heating mats are one of the lowest-powered heating methods for reptiles and therefore are only suitable for the species of the temperate regions, such as corn snakes.

The temperature of the heating mat is an inexpensive device called a stat on a mat (like a thermostat for heating mats). Sinceare several brands of thermostats, which have been specifically designed for heating reptile. A thermostat is also an important piece of safety equipment that prevents excessive heat on the hot side.

Another method of heating is with a light bulb light spot on the ceiling of the nursery, which is controlled by a thermostat. Dimming thermostats to monitor the temperatures in the nursery and to reduce or increase the power supplied to the lamp to adjust the temperature,in the nursery. This method is much more powerful than a heating pad, and can provide higher temperatures. It can also be used to provide a basking a hot plate that can not be created. In nature, many reptiles are basking in the sun to warm up and so this type of heating system promotes a natural behavior for many diurnal lizards such as bearded dragons. A red spot lamp can also be used at night for most reptiles, since most can not see the color red.

Due to the very high surfacetemperatures of spot bulbs, a guard around the bulb is absolutely essential to prevent your reptile from getting burnt.

Another alternative is a Ceramic Bulb that emits only infra red and no visible light. This is ideal if you are keeping the vivarium in your bedroom so the light doesn't disturb you. It is also better suited for reptiles that require exceptionally high temperatures as Ceramic Bulbs come in power ratings up to 250w or even higher in some cases.

Ceramic bulbs can be controlled with a dimming thermostat, though a cheaper alternative is a Pulse Proportional Thermostat which is constantly turning the bulb on and off to maintain the required temperature. If a Pulse Proportional Thermostat were to be used with a spot bulb it would burn out the filament very quickly and you will be constantly replacing the bulb. Ceramic Bulbs on the other hand don't have this problem.

Again, the surface of the bulb can get exceptionally hot and so a guard around the bulb is essential!

Please fully research the requirements of the reptile you are interested in before deciding which heating method is best suited for you.

LIGHTING

Many reptiles need specialist lighting. This is usually provided using fluorescent strip bulbs designed specifically for reptiles that emit a form of ultraviolet light called UVB, the most popular brand in the UK being Exo Terra's Repti Glos though there are many other brands available varying in price. Pretty much any day active lizard will require this form of lighting. It is very important because day active reptiles synthesize a vitamin called D3 using UVB light. Vitamin D3 is an essential vitamin that allows reptiles to metabolize the calcium in their food. Without it, they can not metabolize the calcium regardless how much is in their diet and so they will suffer from a crippling condition known as Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which can result in severe skeletal deformities and in worse case scenarios, death.

Normal fluorescent lights do not emit UVB and nor do common ultraviolet lights like "black lights." Always use a light that is designed to be used for reptiles. These bulbs also emit visible light, however they will only emit UVB for a period of around 6 months so regardless of whether the bulb is still emitting visible light after this time it will need replacing.

For maximum effect, the bulb should ideally be no more than six to ten inches away from the reptile, though the range is effectively doubled if you use a reflector. Try to position the bulb and arrange the vivarium so that your reptile will spend a large part of the day within range of the bulb i.e., when basking.

There are several types of UVB emitting fluorescent bulb. Repti Glos come in three types: 2%, 5%, and 10%. The percentage refers to how much of the light's spectrum is in the UVB range. 5% and 10% are the most popular though are suited for different types of reptiles. 5% bulbs are usually used with Rainforest and European species since the intensity of the sunlight in these areas is relatively low. 10% bulbs are usually used for desert species that spend a large part of their lives in direct sunlight.

Nocturnal reptiles like Leopard Geckos do not require any specialist lighting as they rarely venture out in daylight.

Please fully research the requirements of the reptile you are interested in before deciding which lighting system is best suited for you.

HUMIDITY

Humidity in the vivarium needs to be maintained to match the reptile's natural environment. Without the appropriate humidity your reptile will suffer from respiratory problems, and if the humidity is too low, may have problems shedding their skin. Average indoor humidity in the UK is around 30-50% so if your reptile requires humidity levels higher than this the tank will need to be sprayed with a mister to raise the humidity. An inexpensive device called a Hygrometer can be used to monitor the humidity levels in the vivarium.

Vivariums with higher humidity levels are more prone to mites and mold so be sure to remove any feces and dead food immediately.

SUBSTRATE

There are several factors in choosing the right substrate. The main factor is the humidity. If your reptile requires a high humidity then you want to use a substrate that can hold moisture well. A few examples are Orchid Bark, Sphagnum Moss, Coconut Bedding and Komodo's Tropical Terrain.

There are a few other options for reptiles that do not require high levels of humidity, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Beech chips are one of the most popular though others include Bio Grass, Repti Maize, and Reptile Carpet.

The main problem with Beech chips (and indeed any substrate that is in particle form) is that there is a risk your reptile could accidentally swallow it while eating which can block the digestive system or cause serious internal damage. A safer alternative is Bio Grass which is basically compressed grass pellets. These pellets break down when wet and so can be easily passed through if swallowed. This is also true to a lesser extent with Repti Maize which is made out of kiln dried corn. When swallowed Repti Maize goes mushy around the outside and so is not so hard to pass through and less likely to cause internal damage like with beech chips. The main problem with using these kind of substrates is that they will disintegrate if they get wet which can be a nuisance around their water bowl. Of course all ingestion problems can be avoided if you use a substrate that isn't in particle form like Reptile Carpet which is a coarse felt like material you can use to line the bottom of the vivarium. This will eliminate the ingestion problem, though it will prevent lizards who like to dig into the substrate from doing so.

In some cases it may be more appropriate to feed your reptile outside of the vivarium.

Again, please fully research the reptile you are interested in to help you decide which substrate is most suitable.

REPTILES SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS

Due to the specialist requirements of reptiles, not all species are suitable for beginners. A few that we would recommend for someone starting out in reptile keeping are Leopard Geckos, Crested Geckos, Bearded Dragons, Corn Snakes, Kingsnakes and Hermann's Tortoises. These species grow to a moderate size, are very hardy and usually have very good temperaments making them ideal beginner species.

Reptile Keeping For Beginners