Monday, December 12, 2011

Proper Care of Your Camera - Caring For the Lenses and Keeping Humidity in Check!

Ok, you have completed the process of going to the store or ordering your new camera on line. Now it's time to learn how to care for your expensive piece of equipment. Cameras are very delicate and require dedicated attention while outside of its carrying case.

Keeping Your Camera Dry!
The first thing you want to keep in mind is that you do not want to expose your camera to water, sand, dirt, or other corrosive substances. These can work their way into the microchips inside your camera's mother board and destroy sensitive connections and wiring. If you have to use your camera in dusty, dirty conditions, take a dry cloth and gently wipe the outer casing before returning your camera to its case.

Humidity Control

Caring For The Camera Lenses
The next thing you must remember about caring for your camera is keeping the display screen clean and free of oil build up. Your fingers accumulate grease and oil throughout the day, and it can accumulate on your camera's LCD display, creating a black film that makes viewing your pictures quite difficult. Spray a little Windex on a rag and gently wipe the screen only.

You must also turn your camera off before connecting and disconnecting power sources and transfer cords. It is also a good idea to switch off the power before removing batteries or memory cards so you don't lose what pictures you have saved.

Humidity Control for Your Camera Storage
When using your camera in high humidity, keep it protected from condensation as much as possible. Water will cause your camera's electronic systems to short and will make your camera no longer usable. Condensation can also form on the inside of your lens. If this happens, take your camera to the nearest repair shop and have it cleaned. If you decide to store your camera for an extended period of time, place it in a dry closet and place silica gel packets in the case to prevent moisture build up. Once you take your camera out of the case again, check for any sign of damage or condensation.

You also do not want to leave your camera in a vehicle for extended periods of time. Heat and direct sunlight can damage delicate parts and can actually cause your LCD display to distort. You also do not want to place anything magnetic next to your camera. The force of the magnetic pull can rip connections and ruin batteries.

Proper Care of Your Camera - Caring For the Lenses and Keeping Humidity in Check!

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Benefits Of Home Automation In Climate Control

When we talk about climate control, different acronyms strike our mind, example: HVAC. It refers to the technology of automotive or indoor environmental comfort. HVAC includes heating, ventilation and air conditioning. These three functions are interrelated. They provide thermal comfort, acceptable indoor air quality. HVAC is based on discoveries and inventions by Sadi Carnot, Reuben Trane and many others. Climate control does not only mean adjusting the temperature. It also involves the processes for managing the humidity levels and tweaking the environment to ensure a calm and comfortable home regardless of what is happening outside.

Thermostats can be used to replace the current along with the temperature. With programmable thermostats, the days and times can be set to change the temperatures.

Humidity Control

Thermostats can also be used to turn off the HVAC system if any door or window is open. This will save a lot of energy. In other words, programmable thermostats can be used to maximize comfort and energy savings by allowing your home to automatically adjust the temperature in the different zones of your home. If you want to keep your home at an energy efficient temperature, then light sensors can be used. These can also be programmed to automatically adjust to comfortable temperature levels. Automatically actuated drapery controls can be used to reduce the heat from the sun and save your home furnishings from fading.

Apart from schedule, the systems can also be based on occupancy and activity. So the temperature will automatically be set back on leaving the house or a particular room. There are several devices for climate control. But climate control through home automation is uncomplicated. Existing thermostats can be replaced by new and smarter ones, leaving the ducts, furnace and air conditioning units intact. Internet controlled thermostats helps to control your house temperature from afar.

To make your house energy efficient, you require to know how your house works. This can be done by applying some of the basic principles to analyze the natural tendencies of the house. Some practical solutions can also be implemented. Basic principles of physics can be adopted to maintain an energy efficient house. The principles that can be adopted are air pressure, heat flow and dew-point temperature. All this can be done by simply appointing a home automation company to do the wiring of the house and set up the climate control system. Thus to conclude, we can say that home automation is all about comfort and energy savings.

Benefits Of Home Automation In Climate Control

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Santa Fe Dehumidifier Review

Does the airflow throughout your house feel way more humid than it should? If it does, you are one of many people who probably have a difficult time regulating the humidity level throughout your house. One way to get your humidity under control and reduce it throughout your entire household is to start up a dehumidifier. There are many great dehumidifiers on the market, but most of them cannot compare to the power of the Santa Fe dehumidifier.

The Santa Fe dehumidifiers company has been around for a long time. They are a well-established company that has been manufacturing trustworthy dehumidifiers for years. They offer different types of dehumidifiers that help keep your air drier at your home, work, and at other indoor places of recreation.

Humidity Control

The only downfall that comes with Santa Fe dehumidifiers is the fact that they are fairly expensive. Most people do not want to spend as much money as the Santa Fe company charges; upwards of one-thousand dollars. The cheapest model of Santa Fe dehumidifier that is offered costs roughly ,000 dollars while a higher-priced model costs closer to ,000 dollars.

The reason that the Santa Fe product line is high priced is because each of these dehumidifiers is able to remove the moisture-content from a very large area. If you have a big house, these will be a great investment. For smaller houses, you may want to look into a different brand of dehumidifier. Santa Fe's "Max Dry Dual" dehumidifier is able to hold up to 300 pounds of water-content, which is significantly more than most dehumidifiers on the market.

If you can afford to buy a good dehumidifier in order to lower the humidity in your house, it will be well worth the investment. You will likely be able to sleep better at night and have a much easier time breathing than you normally would with a bunch of humidity bogging down your air. In addition to getting respiratory benefit, these appliances are able to prevent humidity from causing damage to your house. In order to keep your air clearer and healthier to inhale, it is recommended that you think about purchasing at least one dehumidifier to reduce the humidity level in your home.

Santa Fe Dehumidifier Review

Friday, December 9, 2011

How Do I Get Rid Of Sinus Headache?

During sinus a person suffers from sever headache in most cases. Even if the pain is not severe its irritating. Hence it becomes difficult for a patient to concentrate and do normal activities. In irritation some patients shout out, 'How do I get rid of sinus headache?' Now instead of going panic and yelling, its wise if they find the ways to get rid of headaches.

Sinus headache is caused when there is an infection in the sinus cavities either due to some microbes like virus or bacteria or because of an allergic attack. How to get rid of sinus headache is all about making the symptoms of the sinusitis to subside!

Humidity Chamber

If you ask some one,'How do I get rid of sinus headache?' You will get many answers like applying vaporizers or balms on the fore head, taking painkillers etc. But before you try them its important to know the main cause of your sinusitis. How is it that while sometimes sinus leads to headache but not always is also very important to know. It depends upon the sinuses affected and the kind and the extent of infection and the severity with which the body has responded to it.

So to find the answer to this question 'How do I get rid of sinus headache?' one has to think sensibly and cool. To get rid of sinus headache one should think how to clear the nasal passage and sinus exits which get blocked by the mucus. Inhaling steam not only soothes the pain in the nasal passages but also provides humidity that is very much essential to clear the excess mucus from your nasal cavity to sinus chambers. Lets find out more on it.

Here are few more answers to your question, 'How do I get rid of sinus headache?' Try to rest and be calm. Take some medications (analgesics) prescribed by the doctor for the headache. Don't read or write anything exerting pressure to your eyes. If possible take some hot beverages like tea or coffee. If you feel disturbed by bright light take rest in a semi dark room. Avoid noisy environment in case of sinusitis headaches and don't shout. In case the pain is severe and unbearable don't fright and call for a doctor for immediate relief.

You can browse the web to find many other therapeutic and holistic approaches to your question,'How do I get rid of sinus headache?'. The web is a rich source to know the different effective home practices around the world to get rid of sinus pain.

How Do I Get Rid Of Sinus Headache?

Thursday, December 8, 2011

What You Need to Know About Heating System Fuel Consumption - Part 1

Do you want to learn exactly why your heating system burns more fuel than it should? Of course you do, or you wouldn't have found this article. Following are answers to the questions you have, or ones you didn't know you had. I will explain (in defined technical terms) how your heating system is likely to be costing more to heat your home or commercial building than it should and what you can do to reduce those costs.

Anyone who drives an automobile knows that certain cars use less gas than others. The same is true for heating equipment and like gas-guzzling SUVs, some heating systems consume enormous amounts of fuel. The difference between cars and heating systems is cars offer many benefits beyond the primary one of transportation. Cars have performance, comfort and visual appeal, as well as can be a status symbol. Heating systems are tucked away in a basement, attic or closet and their operation and performance are a mystery to most not in the Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning (HVAC) trade, and still a mystery to many in the trade - so-called, "professionals" (a term I use loosely throughout this article).

Humidity Chamber

To clarify, I may interchange the acronym HVAC for heating, and vice versa, but this article is about heating systems, how they work and how they often burn excessive amounts of "fuel" - gas or oil.

Most building owners know how to set the thermostat, change air filters and check the fuel level on their heating fuel tank gauge, but that is about the extent of their heating system knowledge. Typically, building owners do not want to know how their heating system works; it seems too complicated and futile. They prefer to leave the technical aspects to the service personnel they have come to trust. Did I say "trust"? There are many reasons to examine your trust for your heating service company, fuel supplier and General Contractor if you are having a new building constructed - residential or commercial.

For starters, do not assume that the professional you hire to design, install, service or maintain your heating system is qualified to make all the right decisions in those respective aspects of the HVAC trade. Just as in most professions, heating professionals are often types who could care less about the quantity of fuel a heating system ends up consuming and costing its owner; their paycheck at the end of the week is more important to them. The majority of HVAC tradesmen have never been to school to learn the innumerable facets of the interrelated technologies. Moreover, many have never finished high school! But let's not get personal. Mostly, tradesmen have gathered their knowledge through hands-on experience. Experience comes in two flavors: good and bad. If the on-the-job-training has been with lousy 'teachers', then the student will be a lousy apprentice and graduate to becoming a hopelessly old dog incapable of learning new tricks.

It's not only ignorance and bad attitude that have a hand in your fuel-hungry heating appliance's performance, though I wish it were. Deliberate sales of terribly inefficient heating equipment plays a huge role. Sadly to say, American made boilers and furnaces are among the least efficient in the world and continued sales of them guarantee that fuel companies will find you to be a better customer - you will buy more fuel! Greed will often lead to corruption, with most of the corrupt getting away with it. This is a significant reason for my writing this expose.

I have no specific desire to be confrontational with specific companies, though I know them well, but I can't close my eyes any longer, knowing that we are all heading toward a dead-end with our consumption of natural resources. Fossil fuels are limited, they say the planet is heating up and polar bears' extinction in 50 years is all but inevitable. But the more we consume the more we strip forever from the planet its resources and the little is left to meet the needs of its inhabitants in the future. Must we consume until we've proved that the human species is the most insidious parasite the planet has ever known? Do we only take and put nothing back? At least we can take less of the fuel we use to heat our homes, businesses and industries and save money as we do it.

As a precursor to understanding how your heating system works, it is essential to understand the basic terms used in the industry, so let's start with the industry players, then we'll move on to dispelling the mystery surrounding the more technical aspects.

Fuel Companies - "Fuel" is a general term I use to cover any fossil fuel type such as, fuel oil, kerosene, natural and liquefied petroleum gas (LPG), methane, butane and any other petroleum-based gas types that I may not have listed here. Distributors of these fuels have one goal: to sell ("market") as much fuel as they can, to whoever will buy it and for the highest price. Period! They do not have your best economic interests in mind. They are the well-known petroleum giants, names emblazoned on tractor trailer tanks barreling down highways; large publicly traded utilities and your local fuel company with warm 'friendly' ads in the media. Fuel companies have the most to gain by inefficiently designing, installing and servicing your heating equipment. They want to deliver as much fuel at each delivery stop as possible. I know, I used to deliver fuel when I worked for fuel companies in the early 1980s.

HVAC Contractors - "HVAC" is a general term that is often misused and misapplied. Businesses that go under this heading tend to get involved with the installation and service of many areas of the indoor climate control realm, and it is a broad one! Not only does HVAC mean heating, ventilation and air conditioning, but also humidity control, indoor air quality and refrigeration. This player in the trade is likely to be more incompetent than fraudulent when it comes to accurately designing, installing and servicing heating equipment.

Plumbing & Heating (P&H) Companies - Many heating consumers are groomed through the ages to believe that plumbers are the same as heating technicians - they are not. The only thing plumbing and heating have in common is in the way pipes are connected - threaded, soldered (sweated), welded, glued (cemented), and more recently, compressed together with company specific connection means. P & H types rarely have mastered heating technology. I can spot a plumber-installed heating system instantly. It's one thing to be a master at piping, which many plumbers are, it's another issue altogether to know how the piped heating system works.

Handyman - Knows a little bit more than a homeowner about heating systems.

Heating Technicians - This is who you want to work on your heating system, but not necessarily one from a fuel company. Heating technicians work for fuel companies and gas utilities/suppliers. "Buyer beware!" Only half of these guys are qualified to do a good job on your system. Still, only 10% are really good, master-types who are rarely stumped and who see the big picture - the original system design is clear to them, the service history pops out like forensic science and they can make your system work with little or nothing to work with.

The aforementioned list is comprised of the standard players in the trade, but only fuel companies sell fuel, design, install and service heating equipment, which is not to suggest that all fuel companies participate in all aspects of the heating trade, nor am I saying that all fuel companies defraud their customers, most do not.

The case for burning less fuel can be easily made if everyone went out on the ocean in a boat and saw the sickening depth of pollution in our atmosphere stretching across the water as far as the eye can see. I live on the Atlantic side of the States and the prevailing winds blow off the land, bringing with it the smog generated across the country. Otherwise, watch a sunset and marvel at the orange and red hues, for they are the result of pollutants and particulates in the atmosphere that taint the natural color of sunlight.

Let us examine what goes into our atmosphere and our lungs when we breathe, when fossil fuels are burned. The byproducts of combustion of gas types and fuel oil include, but are not limited to:

1. Flue Gas

2. Carbon Dioxide

3. Nitrogen Oxide

4. Nitrogen Dioxide

5. Sulphur Dioxide

6. Soot

7. Carbon Monoxide

The exhausting of these compounds into the earth's atmosphere occurs constantly across the globe and proportionately to the amount of fuel burned by heating equipment, internal combustion engines and industrial processes. The more fuel we burn, the more we contribute to the aggregate pollution of our home - Earth. Why, then, burn more fuel than necessary?

The following terms and definitions deal directly with heating system apparatus and components.
British Thermal Unit (BTU) - The amount of energy required to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. British Thermal Units are expressed as a ratio to time -BTUs per hour (written btus/hr., or MBH, where M=the Roman numeral for 1,000; B=BTUs; H=Hour, so expressed as 1000s of btus/hr. All heating equipment is rated in BTU heating capacity. A typical residential furnace has a heating capacity of 100,000 BTUs and can heat a 3,000 square foot modern house. These are approximate numbers, of course. For an accurate BTU requirement to heat a building a Heat Loss Calculation must be conducted (see definition for Heat Loss Calculation). Flue - The passageways that direct the byproducts of combustion out of a heating appliance. Burner - These come in many types, but we will restrict our discussion to Gun-Type, Sealed Combustion and Atmospheric, as these are most likely the kind that are in residential and commercial buildings. Burners mix #2 fuel oil, kerosene, LPG or Natural gas with atmosphere (air), then ignite and control the combustion of their respective fuel types. Gun type burners can be seen protruding from the fronts of boilers and furnaces and burn gas and oil. Atmospheric gas burners are like the gas burner under a water pot on a kitchen stove - they are open to the atmosphere. Water heaters, Furnaces and Boilers utilize atmospheric and gun-type burners. Sealed Combustion burners are as their title implies, the combustion process is sealed tightly from the atmosphere in which they are installed, like a basement, attic or closet. Sealed combustion burners take their combustion air from the outdoors through a plastic pipe and vent their products of combustion to the outdoors through a second pipe, usually made of PVC (polyvinylchloride) or stainless steel. Gun-type and atmospheric burners generally vent to the outdoors through a chimney or mechanical venting means, called a "power-venter". While Atmospheric burners are simple and inexpensive, Sealed Combustion burners are much more complex and expensive. Atmospheric burners are mid efficiency types, whereas Sealed Combustion burners are high efficiency types. Combustion Chamber - A combustion chamber or, simply, a chamber is almost always part and parcel of heating appliances that utilize a gun-type burner, and is internal to a furnace or boiler. Inside the chamber is where the actual fire during combustion of fuels takes place. An observation door or window allows a technician partial view of the combustion process inside the chamber. Boiler - A cast iron or steel heat-generating vessel that utilizes water as a heat transfer medium to warm a space to a desired temperature. Boilers incorporate a burner which facilitates the combustion of fuels. Boilers can include a chamber, but don't always. Furnace - A Furnace includes a burner, most likely a combustion chamber, a heat exchanger, a blower or fan and has ducts connected to it. The blower pulls "return air" from the conditioned space through a "return duct" and pushes it across the non-flue gas side of the heat exchanger. Once the relatively cold return air comes into contact with the very hot heat exchanger, the moving air picks up heat and is propelled toward the occupied space through the supply duct and out diffusers and registers placed in the rooms to be heated. For sake of reference, furnaces have replaceable air filters, boilers do not. Heat Exchanger - A device that transfers heat from one medium (fire and flue gas) to that of another. Flue gas contains heat which is transferred through a steel, cast iron, aluminum or stainless steel barrier (prior to exiting the appliance and up the flue) into a heat transfer medium separated by the heat exchanger barrier. For sake of our discussion, air, water and steam are the heat transfer mediums relevant to this article that transfer the heat from combustion to space in the building to be heated. Conditioned Space - The space within a building - residential or commercial - that is to be heated or air conditioned. We will deal with heating a conditioned space in this article. Hydronics - Hot water or steam heating technology. Forced Hot Water (FHW) - FHW heating systems include boilers (or sometimes water heaters) connected by pipes to heating "terminal units" like radiators, baseboard convectors, hot water coils in an airstream and radiant floor heating tubes embedded in floors. Forced hot water systems succeed gravity hot water (GHW) systems that were coal fired back in the day of their popular use. Water is heated in a boiler and is then circulated, or forced with a 'pump' through pipes connecting the boiler to the terminal units where heat is rejected to the space to be conditioned. The hot water temperature is lessened by the cooler room air that surrounds the terminal units and the water is returned to the boiler to be reheated and re-circulated in a continuous cycle that only stops when the room thermostat is satisfied by the increasingly heated air. Forced Hot Air (FHA) - As in FHW, a heat exchanger inside a furnace takes the heat generated by the combustion of fuel and transfers it to the occupied space of a building, but through the passage of heated air inside supply and return ducts. Forced Hot Air implies the utilization of a furnace, whereas Forced Hot Water uses a boiler. Steam - This system is the "Hydronic" cousin of forced hot water. Both transfer heat through water or water vapor - steam. Both include boilers that transfer heat from the fuel combustion process to the heat transfer medium - water or steam. Both include pipes and terminal units. Steam is created when water in the boiler boils and converts to steam if it is continually heated. Imagine a pot of water on a burner. The stove burner (gas or electric) heats the pot of water above it. Left long enough above the heat, the water boils and vaporizes upward. In the boiler the vapor rises up in voluminous pipes onward to cast iron radiators or baseboard. Steam seeks equilibrium with the atmosphere. Hot vapor has greater pressure than cooler air, so rushes for the nearest exit in a steam system into the lower pressure atmosphere in the conditioned space. Press the "Schrader" valve stem on your car tire and high pressure air rushes out into the lower pressure atmosphere - it's the same with steam in a heating system. Strategically placed air vents on radiators and condensate return lines allow the air above the water line in a steam system to be forced out of the system through them, but stop as the steam comes into contact with their internal mechanisms. Steam is the least efficient heating type, as the water temperature must be raised above 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Whereas, hot water systems water temperature can be modulated based on the outdoor ambient air temperature. The warmer it is outside, the less temperature is needed in forced hot water system water. Heat pumps, electrically heated boilers and baseboard element, wood and coal-fired boilers and furnaces, solar and any other system types not fired by petroleum products, are not included in this article. Limit Control - This control is also referred to as an "aquastat" in FHW systems and a "Fan & Limit Control in FHA systems. Hybrid hydronic systems - a steam boiler with a FHW loop (zone) also incorporate Limit Controls. Limit controls can maintain low temperature and high temperature thresholds in a heating system. Limit Controls come in many different types and have a myriad of applications that require a specific type of Limit Control. Limit Controls are often the device that cause excessive fuel consumption and are selected for this reason by unethical fuel companies so your system burns the maximum amount of fuel your heating system can possibly burn. You will want to check the type of Limit Control on your heating system! Read on to find out why. Nozzle - The device in an oil burner that meters a specific amount of fuel through it and converts the liquid fuel into a vapor that can be readily mixed with air and ignited. Nozzles have 3 means of categorization: the amount of fuel that passes through it in gallons per hour (GPH) @ 100 pounds per square inch (PSI) of fuel pump pressure; the angle of oil vapor spray that comes out of its orifice; and the spray pattern - solid, hollow, or somewhere in between. Those specifications are written as an example like 1.00-80-B. This means 1 gallon of oil will pass through the nozzle at 100 PSI, 80 degrees is the vapor spray angle and "B" is code for solid. Too high a GPH and your oil burner will over-fire your furnace or boiler and start and stop too often - "short-cycle". Burner Orifice - Like in oil burners, gas burners have metering devices and these are called burner orifices or burner "spud". The wrong burner orifice in a gas system can be deadly, as gas is explosive and when it is not burned properly and in the correct proportion to air the outcome can be inefficient and downright dangerous. Gas burners have at least one orifice but can have many, sometime too many, as you will see later in this article. Heat Loss Calculation - Software programs exist to accept data input relative to a building's design characteristics like window and door types, sizes and U-values, structure insulation R-values, room sizes and internal heat gain like people and appliances. Once this information is entered into the program the software calculates how many BTUs are needed on the coldest day of the year to heat the building to a design temperature say, 68 degrees. There are no accurate short cuts to a heat loss calculation. Anytime a new heating system is designed it must first be preceded by an accurate heat loss calculation. For everything related to proper equipment and component sizing and selection is based on BTU generating and/or carrying capacity. Pipe diameters are limited in how many BTUs of energy they can transport with water as its heat transfer medium, just as duct sizes are limited in how many BTUs they can transport with air as the medium.Let's apply these technical terms. For starters, let's create a scenario - you want to build a new house. The first thing you do is interview several building contractors who call themselves a General Contractor (GC). A competent GC will give you a package price for construction of all aspects and systems in the new house. He will hire and manage all subcontractors from the electrician, to the plumber to the roofer, and the HVAC contractor. These tradesmen are subcontractors to the GC. The residential building trade is an extremely competitive one and the profit margins are slim. The GC knows this, so hires the people he thinks will furnish acceptable quality at the lowest price. Unfortunately, most GCs are extremely unaware of the importance of proper heating system design and the information that needs to be considered to produce the most efficient design for the money. He is also unaware of the requisite steps involved with cranking out a professional design. It is the design that determines the cost. GCs often look at the cost only. As long as the heating system "works", then the GC is happy, even though he will never know that the system will consume a lot more fuel than if it was competently designed in the first place. In fact, nobody will ever know that is, until a true competent professional figures it out, but then it is usually too late. Most would rather spend more money on fuel than replace the incorrectly designed system.

What You Need to Know About Heating System Fuel Consumption - Part 1

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Garden Insect Control - An Incredible and Amazing Guideline

Garden insect control will be a truly severe issue in the world these days. For a few people who like plants and have gardening hobbies, having a garden and lawn could be really wonderful and fantastic things. Lawn isn't only provide lots of fun and enjoyable activities, however it's in occasion also produce fruits and vegetables which you could eat. By reason of those benefits of having garden, keeping the lawn becomes beautiful and interesting with it is very essential.

Having a lawn at house means that you have got to be well educated on the issue of garden control. The topic about garden insect control has been frequently discussed by many people all around the world, including the topic about vegetable garden pest control. Coming up with insects and diseases in the lawn truly doesn't have to be difficult, however there are a few things which you're going to need to be conscious of.

Humidity Control

As soon as you start your lawn, you're going to want to incorporate the right and the proper garden insect control methods to keep away from getting a pest trouble in the beginning and in the future. In order to eliminate problems with insects and diseases, you ought to always start with healthy soil which will offer the plants anything they need to thrive and growth.

Check out your plants on a regular basis if there are several signals of insects and diseases. The earlier you understand about the diseases and insects, the lengthier the age of your plants. The last insect control that you can do is to mist the plants frequently as some insect pets dislike the humidity.

In fact, there are numerous things from it that you can do to prevent and save your plant population from several diseases and insects as well as lawn pets. Though prevention is the concrete measure of the garden insect control [http://pestcontrolbuzz.com/garden-insect-control/garden-insect-control-a-popular-and-sensitive-issue/], there are still certain situations where pest problems take over and you're just going to have got to deal with it.

Garden Insect Control - An Incredible and Amazing Guideline

Monday, December 5, 2011

Measure Humidity Levels In Your Home in Fall and Winter, With a Hygrometer

It can be said that while humidity is essential to our health and our homes that Winnipeg in the winter is drier than in humidity than the Sahara Desert. True we all need some moisture as well as humidity in our homes and offices to maintain both comfort and health levels. However either too much or too little humidity can result in any number of problems ranging from condensation on window panes, moldy bathrooms, and musty basements to the full gamut of serious problems and concerns such as permanent damage to building and structures or respiratory concerns and allergies.

The most reliable way to measure the overall humidity in any dwelling is with a standard hygrometer - a fairly small, inexpensive as well as easy to use measurement tool which can be had at most big box or smaller hardware or building construction or heating / air conditioning supply stores and outlets.

Humidity Control

Is there an overall relative humidity (R.H.) rate or measurement that is held in the heating and air conditioning trades as a fair and acceptable health and comfort standard? Yes, overall and in general furnace and air conditioning cooling trades recommend in the range and ranges of 30 %. Remember as well that the term is not simply the one word "Humidity" but rather "Relative Humidity". What this entails is that the measured humid levels and measurements - that is moisture in the air - is relative to the temperature. Moisture is released by air as the temperature decreases, and picked up by the air as the ambient temperatures increase. Thus air that has a low rate when warm or hot, can and will rank a high number as it cools. Acceptable comfortable air when warm - say 75 or 80 degrees Fahrenheit can when chilled to 20 degrees begin to give up its moisture, become humid and "sweat" when cooled or chilled to the lower temperature ranges. Thus in the wintertime and cold weather the humid rh index should be no more than 30 % - thus giving lots of leeway should temperatures decrease yet more. However during the warmer times of year - say during summer - the R.H. relative humidity levels can increase to 60 % maximal range with no concerns what so ever to health or comfort.

What can be done to reduce excessive or high moisture levels in your home or abode? Plenty and most of it is fairly easy, standard and relatively inexpensive. Remember though that the issues may be seasonal so that problems do not creep up in the summertime but will over the cooler winter, fall and even springtime seasons.

Here are some simple steps to consider. First of all reduce moisture loss. Close the bathroom shower and washing machine drier utility rooms during use. Open the windows or better yet install an outdoors leading exhaust fan or fans. If rooms are draughty or chilly then caulk up and seal up air draft leaks, and as well insulate walls and doors if possible.

Improve heat to areas that need it. It may be a simple matter of a heating professional adjusting the heating duct flow balance in your home and / or simply cleaning ducts of dust and wintertime debris to increase and speed up warm air flow from your furnace.

Perhaps your furnace needs to be cleaned and tuned up this fall as well. Lastly do not forget to replace or clean your furnace's air filters. Clogged furnace filters restrict and reduce warm air flow. Throw away disposable filters are inexpensive to replace and can be swapped in a snap. More expensive yet effective electronic air filters need to be cleaned as well. You can simply wash the electrostatic air filters in a sink with warm clean non soapy water or in many cases even placed in a clean water cycle in your dishwasher.

In the end with a little bit of work, effort and rearrangement you should be able to normalize humidity levels in your home so that they are not an issue to health or comfort. That is high enough in the summer yet not to great during the colder and damper winter and fall times.

Measure Humidity Levels In Your Home in Fall and Winter, With a Hygrometer

Sunday, December 4, 2011

A Humid House is a Sick Home

"It ain't the heat but, the humidity that will kill you." How many times have we heard that statement or, made it our selves? One has to admit it definitely is a statement that not only holds true during those hazy days of summer but, can also prove extremely detrimental for your home and all of its inhabitants any time of the year.

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, one third to one half of all structures in the nation have damp conditions that may encourage the development of pollutants such as molds and bacteria, which can cause extreme allergic reactions including asthma and spread infectious diseases. There is a misconception that air conditioning alone keeps humidity under control. Not true. These systems are designed to control the temperature, not the humidity.

Humidity Control

If you are experiencing trouble sleeping at night because your skin is clammy and the air is so thick you can cut it with a knife, your wood floors feel sticky, your home smells musty, you notice heavy condensation on all of your piping, have visible wet stains on your walls and ceilings... you possibly have a problem. Humidity does not discriminate. If it is noticeable in one room, then you can be certain it has permeated the entire living quarters and basement as well.

One thing is undeniable, to much moisture will most certainly corrode and decay your most valuable possession... your home... and create a health hazard for you and your family as well.

A Humid House is a Sick Home

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Homemade Incubators - How to Make an Egg Incubator

When you consider how to make egg incubator, you must consider all the things that an incubator has to do. Here's a short list of bullets to consider when making an egg incubator.

-Temperature Control
Your homemade incubator must be able to maintain a steady temperature appropriate to the species you are trying to hatch. The incubation area must be in an area that is free from direct sunlight and drafts. The temperature control doesn't matter, as long as it can be adjusted in increments. A thermometer should be present in the enclosed area to measure and maintain the appropriate level of heat.

Humidity Control

-Humidity Control
Your homemade incubator must be able to maintain a steady humidity level, appropriate to the species you are trying to hatch. An easy way to accomplish this by building in plans for a pan of water to be placed under the incubator to raise humidity, and vents or slots in the incubator to lower humidity, as needed.

-Turning Mechanism
If you aren't able to build an automatic turning mechanism into your design, you have to ensure that the enclosed area is not sealed, that is, it can be opened easily in order to access the eggs quickly to turn them, without significant change in heat or humidity.

-Flooring
The base of your incubator needs to be a material that is easily removable, or easily cleaned. Also, the flooring should not be made of certain materials, as they may be poisonous to the species being raised. Cedar chips, for example, are poisonous to quail and should never be used as flooring.

For more information about egg incubation, including chicken egg incubators, DIY egg incubator projects, and all other things related to incubator use and maintenance, check out my blog at Chicken Egg Incubators which is full of incubation information.

Homemade Incubators - How to Make an Egg Incubator

Thursday, December 1, 2011

How to Care For Orchids Indoors - Temperatures, Humidity and Placement

If you've chosen to grow orchids in your home It's a good idea to be as prepared as possible before you go out and buy your plant. In my opinion, orchids are one of the most worthwhile and rewarding plants you can grow in your home. While it's true that learning how to care for your orchids is a life long pursuit, don't despair because you can still successfully grow them with a good grasp of the basics. We've all got to start somewhere, right?

There are several species of orchids that make ideal indoor orchids and I would suggest that if you're a beginner that you start with one of these plants to give yourself the best chance for success. Growing your orchid indoors can be a little more tricky than in a greenhouse where you often have a little more control over the growing conditions, but is still easily achievable if you can match their requirements.

Humidity Control

Phalaenopsis orchid species make fantastic indoor plants, not only are they beautiful orchids with long lasting blooms they tolerate dryer conditions, such as those in a centrally heated home, better than most.

What to look for when buying your orchid

Check for signs of diseases, maturity and general health in your orchids before you buy.

Starting from the top down check the orchids flowers, if they are already wilting you can probably move on to the next plant because this orchid has reached the end of its blooming cycle.

Check for spots or discolouration on the flowers and leaves and make sure to check the underside too and around the crook of the leaves and the stem. Discolouration could be the sign of an unhealthy or diseased plant. The orchids leaves should be thick, green and firm, yellowing leaves could be a sign of over watering or too much light. Dark green leaves could mean too little light.

Check the roots if you can, they should be firm and whitish with darker coloured tips, Soft or spongy roots indicate an unhealthy plant.

Placement

Once you've got yourself the perfect orchid you'll need to find the perfect spot to keep it. Maximising the daylight hours whilst avoiding sunburn is key to caring for your orchids. Indoors you've got to find somewhere with long periods of shaded or diffused light. Eastern or western facing windows often provide the longest hours of sunlight whilst avoiding the strong midday light but to be sure you can use a blind, net curtain or frosted glass to diffuse the light.

Humidity

Species of phalaenopsis orchids will be pretty forgiving of dryer air in your home but many orchids prefer a much more humid environment especially tropical and sub-tropical species. A humidity of around 60% is not unreasonable. This is much easier to achieve in a greenhouse but you can increase the humidity around your orchid indoors by using a water tray or humidity tray. Basically the orchid is supported above a tray filled with water, the water evaporates and increases the humidity around your orchid. Pretty simple, but effective too.

Temperature

One of the biggest challenges of growing you orchid indoors is often to provide them with the correct temperature range. The conditions and temperature fluctuations that your orchid prefers may not be ideal living conditions for you. Phalaenopsis especially enjoy the warmth of an indoor home environment but each orchid species will have its own requirements. Try to get a night time temperature drop of around 10 - 14 degrees Fahrenheit. Some orchids will require a much lower temperature during periods of no growth, you may have to relocate your orchids or even move you indoor orchids outdoors to achieve this. Getting these temperature ranges correct will help ensure that your orchid keeps blooming time and time again.

How to Care For Orchids Indoors - Temperatures, Humidity and Placement

Sunday, November 27, 2011

6 Things You Should Know About the Sipadan Island Before You Book Your Diving Trip

So, you decided to go diving in Malaysia! The best place to do it is on the Sipadan Island. Here are a few things you should know about it.

(1) What makes it special. Pulau Sipadan, as the natives call it, is the only oceanic island of Malaysia in the Celebes Sea, just off the coast of Borneo. It rises 600 meters above sea level and it is home of thousands of species of fish, corals and turtles.

Humidity Chamber

(2) Getting there. First you fly into Malaysia, either to the capital, Kuala Lumpur or directly into the capital of the state of Sabah, Kota Kinabalu, on the island of Borneo. There are several flights a day from each of these locations to the town of Tawau. There is also a bus service from Kota Kinabalu to Tawau, if you prefer the scenic route. Then you can take a taxi or a minivan to the port town Semporna. Lastly, you take a fast boat directly to the Sipadan Island.

(3) Keep in mind that you cannot stay on Sipadan Island! Since the year 2005 the Malaysian government has enforced strict regulations on the numbers of visitors and divers on the island. Because of the incredibly huge number of tourists that have flooded the island, the government turned it into a wildlife and marine life sanctuary. There are only 120 dive permits offered per day, on a first come - first served basis.

(4) What is there to see and do? You can walk around the beautiful sandy beaches, where sometimes large monitor lizards can be seen. Snorkeling and diving can be done all around the island, where amazing coral reefs and rich marine life can be spotted.

(5) Sipadan Island diving. Jacques Cousteau, the legendary French adventurer made the island famous among diving enthusiasts, through his documentary on the local marine life. The Sipadan Island offers one of the best and rarest diving experiences. The reef wall that drops 1000 to 2000 meters can be reached at just 20 meters over the reef, off the main beach. You can see schools of green and hawksbill turtles, barracudas, manta rays, eagle rays, hammerhead sharks, whale sharks and 3000 more species of fish. There's also an underwater limestone cave with tunnels and chambers, which hosts a turtle tomb as well. The abundance and diversity of the marine life makes Sipadan Island diving one of the top 10 diving experiences.

(6) Best time to visit. Pulau Sipadan is blessed with a unique climate, with the sun shining brightly all year long and temperatures ranging from 21°C to 31°C with the humidity about 90%. The rainy season is generally from November to February. Diving can be done all year round while the high-season is from July to August.

Keeping in mind that all resorts on the Sipadan Island have been closed down to preserve the amazing marine life the fact that there are only 120 dive permits offered per day, you may want to consider booking your trip well in advance.

6 Things You Should Know About the Sipadan Island Before You Book Your Diving Trip

Saturday, November 26, 2011

How to Control Mold in Your Home

How do you prevent or control mold?

Since mold in all of its forms thrives in a moist environment, removing as much moisture from the air as possible will make a big difference in your mold allergies. Whole house dehumidifiers are a big help for this project...but if you cannot use one for whatever reason, all is not lost. Here are a few suggestions to help you control it...

Humidity Control

1) Keep humidity levels inside the house as low as you can. Use an air conditioner...especially during the more humid times of the year. A good air conditioner can help to lessen mold allergies...as cool air holds less moisture. You may also need to look into having the duct work cleaned to remove any mold that might have formed during the winter months.

2) Make sure your home has good ventilation in the bathroom and kitchen. The use of small dehumidifiers in these areas will also help to prevent mold spores from forming...and thus lessen mold allergy symptoms.

3) Add a mold inhibitor to paint...especially in the basement...before you apply it to the walls to help prevent basement wall mold.

4) Use a basement dehumidifier in your basement to prevent black mold.

5) Do not put carpeting in bathrooms or basements. If any carpeting or furniture has gotten wet, replace it asap.

6) To prevent mildew mold from forming, clean your bathrooms regularly with a mold killing product.

7) Use an attic dehumidifier to prevent mold on wood ceiling beams and to prevent mold spores in the attic. The attic is very susceptible to mold...especially in the Southern states where humidity is high.

8) The use of a crawl space dehumidifier will help to prevent mold in walls.

A mold allergy can be a dangerous allergy to have...especially for the elderly and the very young as mold allergy symptoms effect breathing. It is very important to control mold as much as you can.

While you can never completely eliminate mold, thorough cleaning with a mold and mildew killing product and the judicious use of dehumidifiers, you can reduce it a great deal. An attic dehumidifier (especially in the Southern states where humidity is high) and basement dehumidifiers (in the northern states where snow is a factor) is a must for minimal mold allergy control.

How to Control Mold in Your Home

Friday, November 25, 2011

Solving High Humidity Problems in the Home

Water and excessive humidity in your home or basement can do a lot of damage and cause unpleasant mildew odors. What can you as a homeowner due to solve the issue of high levels of moisture? First and foremost in the vast majority of cases the problems lies outside not inside your household's walls. Often water in the basement itself is the result of water pooling outside - look at better landscaping and gutter and eaves roughing systems to lead to water away from outside walls of your home. However even with the best laid plans and planning water may seep through cracks - or even almost a deluge into your basement areas. So what work can be done to reduce humidity levels in your home to acceptable levels to work to control or at least hold off baying the situation?

If its simply a matter of dampness in your basement - that cold chill that then results in mildew then the steps required may not involve cracks in basement walls. Look to reduce and eliminate humidity levels in the basement areas and indeed in the whole home. Increase ventilation overall by vents and venting the biggest producers of humidity in your home to the outside air. The usual culprits to consider include appliances such as washing machines, dishwashers and gas or electric clothes dryers.

Humidity Control

The dryers should be vented to the outside air. If vents already exist make sure that the piping and venting is clear and unencumbered. Exterior outlets should not be blocked - they should be clear. The vents themselves may need to be cleared of lint. It is a good idea to have an exterior directed fan in the kitchen and bathroom areas to vent indoor humid air to the outside. If exhaust fans are installed in these areas make sure, like the driers that the passageways are clear, the exhaust ports open and clear as well. In some older homes you may find that the venting is not to the actual exterior of the home, but rather to the attic. In previous times before solid and complete insulation practices this was "good enough" as attics were rather drafty and not air tight. It was easiest and cheapest simply to vent to the attic. If this is the situation expand the venting from the attic to the outside. Some homeowners have dealt with humidity issues in their homes and a house by installing additional vents in the attic them to eliminate and control high humidity levels. It is your choice and heating budget so to speak.

Solving High Humidity Problems in the Home

Thursday, November 24, 2011

How To Control Basement Water Seepage

Let's define what make crawlspaces gross places to begin with. They're damp, they smell and they're hard to get in and out of. The first two of these problems can be solved by drying out the space. There are a few steps to doing just that, but it's worth it.

Seal it off
The first step to drying out a crawlspace is to seal (or encapsulate) the earth or concrete from the home. This is best done with a thick, plastic vapor barrier. These work the best because they block water vapor and they're thick enough not to rip when service people crawl on it. Since the liner seals off moisture, the humidity and temperature will begin to stabilize.

Humidity Control

Another bonus to the right type of plastic vapor barriers is that they can brighten the space with the available lighting, if they are white in color. This may not sound like a big deal but when you're in there, any light that can be reflected can make a big difference in how well you see your surroundings.

Get a sump
Sump pumps are another great tool in the fight against moisture. They take water out of the space and direct it back outside, far from your home. Having a professional waterproofing contractor install a sump pump can save the "do-it-yourselfer" a lot of aggravation and money in the long-run.

Sump pumps are most often useful in periods of heavy rain. They are available with one pump, two pumps or even three. The extra pumps can help in case one pump malfunctions or just has a hard time keeping up with the volume of water being thrown at it or if the power goes out. Sump pump alarms are another accessory which let you know when water has risen too high in the liner. This will give you warning and time to check out the situation or call for service.

Dry it out
Humid and moist air is a huge culprit in keeping homes full of smelly mold and mildew. One of the best ways to combat this is to install a dehumidifier. Some companies even carry ones that are made specifically for crawl spaces, not basements. What they do is wring water out of the air like a towel. This dries out the air and (when used consistently) prevents mold and mildew from being able to thrive.

This is a big deal because air flow in a home is from bottom to top. Air comes from the below grade space and travels up into the house and eventually leaves through the attic. If a home is full of moist and humid air, mold and mildew will thrive and spread throughout the home.

Often times this can cause chronic allergies and asthma issues for family members. Plus, mold and mildew are the culprits behind that "musty smell" that plague many homes across the country. When a dehumidifier is constantly used, it results in a drier crawlspace and less health problems due to mold and mildew. You'll need one that is powerful enough to do the job energy efficiently and will clean the air as well. It's a winning solution that can solve your water seepage problem when used in conjunction with the aforementioned tools.

How To Control Basement Water Seepage

Monday, November 21, 2011

Identify and Control Lawn Fungus

Lawn fungus; materializing in numerous colours under varied environmental conditions, it attacks a wide range of grasses. Knowing how to identify it early, before it becomes a major problem, will save both time and money. Anyone who is concerned about the having a beautiful lawn should monitor it for signs of disease, prevent outbreaks if possible and treat disease infestations quickly and effectively.

Appearance and Damage Caused

Humidity Control

Lawn fungus materializes as a variety of rings, spots and patches during different times of the year.

In the summer, one to three foot wide brown patches often show up during hot weather. People in areas with both hot weather and high humidity, like the Lower Mainland of British Columbia or Southern Ontario, may also see gray or purple tinged rings appear around the edge of the blotches.

In the winter, grass snow mold (a type of lawn fungus) may likely appear after the snow melts or during long periods of cold, wet weather. These patches are often pink or gray and can have quite different effects on your lawn.

Pink snow-mold produces roughly circular bleached patches up to 60 centimetres in diametre. It may initially look white and mature to a faint pink or salmon color. It can invade the crowns and roots of grass, causing serious injury or even killing it.

Gray snow-mold is seen in similar-sized patches as pink snow mold, but as a light gray or white colour. It is unsightly but less serious than pink mold, rarely damaging more than the blades of grass. If it has not spread extensively, gray snow-mold may even disappear once the affected lawn has had time to dry thoroughly.

Disease Management

Preventing grass mold it from attacking your lawn in the first place is the best way of managing it. Don't ignore the possible signs of disease, as it is more cost-effective to prevent the lawn mold growth from developing than cure areas where it has become established.

There are several steps which may help ward off outbreaks of lawn snow mold. Avoiding excessive nitrogen fertilizers, cleaning up leaves, managing thatch and mowing your lawn until it stops growing are all simple ways to prevent outbreaks of lawn fungus.

Choosing a good fungicide is also an effective way to both treat outbreaks of grass snow mold and prevent them from reoccurring; however, many people don't wish treat their lawn with chemicals due to health and environmental concerns. Thankfully, products like ZeroTol are available.

Both safe and environmentally friendly, fungicides like ZeroTol (commercial) or ZeroTol Ready-to-Spray (home & garden) can cure existing outbreaks of grass snow mold in addition to killing the spread of moss. ZeroTol is environmentally friendly and non-toxic. It is also highly effective, frequently producing visible results in less than 48 hours.

Identify and Control Lawn Fungus

Saturday, November 19, 2011

The Propagation Kit - Essential Considerations for Propagating Plants

One of the most important elements of gardening is seed and cutting propagation. This is the start of the journey for many plants and whilst the process is certainly technical, it does not have to be daunting. If you have the right propagation kit the process can be made far simpler, helping you to propagate your plants as easily as possible.

One of the most important steps in the propagation process is to have all of the equipment you will need ready before you begin. Once again a kit can help you to do this. Additionally, it is worthwhile making sure any equipment you plan to use is sterile, and any cutting implements are sharp. Understandably, if you have had crops in the past hampered by disease, then ensuring sterility is achieved before propagation is vital. Sterilisation can be achieved using special bleach like solutions, available from gardening retailers.

Humidity Chamber

Propagation can be performed using a number of different growing mediums, from Rockwool and compressed peat to perlite and vermiculite mixes. It is important that these mediums are prepared properly so as to give seeds or cuttings the best chance of success. It is also fundamental to consider four other factors when propagating; these are pH levels, light, temperature and water.

pH levels are important for all plants at every stage of their lifecycle. As a rough guide pH levels between 6.2 and 6.8 should be maintained for the plant to flourish. pH levels should be monitored on a weekly basis to ensure that the plant does not miss out on certain nutrients and elements that are only available at the correct pH.

As well as pH, light is vital in the propagation process. Most gardeners typically use fluorescent lights to allow seeds or cuttings to grow. Typically these lights should be left on for a maximum of 18hrs a day and a minimum of 16. The most convenient way to do this is to use a time operated switch, this also ensures that the plants have a uniform lightness/darkness schedule.

Temperature and humidity are massively important in plant growth. Most plants will successfully germinate at a temperature between twenty and twenty eight degrees Celsius. This temperature range will enable the growth of seedlings at a rate that should encourage healthy growth in later life. As part of a propagation kit, a chamber will normally be provided to create a warm and humid environment for the seeds or cuttings. This chamber should be kept suitably moist to encourage growth.

Finally it is important to consider the water levels provided to seedling. In most cases a spray of mist will be sufficient to keep the moisture levels suitable. In the water it is advisable to use a nutrient solution to ensure the plant is given the food it needs for healthy and successful growth.

The Propagation Kit - Essential Considerations for Propagating Plants

Thursday, November 17, 2011

Learn What Items Require Climate Control Storage

Climate control storage has become extremely popular over the years. Since the 1970s individuals have used self storage companies to store valuable items when room got scarce at home. Storage units are also useful during moves when there might be a short period of time between the closing of a home and the move in date for another home. The only downside to storage units, especially storage units that will be used for a long period of time is that items often deteriorate when exposed to the weather.

Many people who rent storage units do not realize that the temperature in their storage units will be dependent upon the outside weather condition. On summer days when the temperature reaches 90 degrees the average storage facility will end up being 80 degrees at best. During humid weather a storage unit can become stifling and cause extreme damage to items in storage. Many people who have stored valuable clothing, wines, and other items in traditional storage have gotten a rude awakening when they went to retrieve their items from storage. Before throwing your items into a storage unit take the time to find out which of your belongings will benefit from climate controlled storage.

Humidity Control

First of all, when you are trying to determine which of your belongings will benefit from climate controlled storage stop and think about the weather condition of the area you live in. There are some people, not many, who might not need to invest in climate controlled storage. First of all, do you live in an area like Louisiana that is known for high levels of humidity? If so, you definitely need to consider climate controlled storage units. High levels of humidity will warp high quality furniture leading to cracking and serious damage. Documents that are stored in humid areas can degrade rapidly losing color and overtime mildew and mold will begin to grow on clothing and furniture that is in storage. Worst, insects breed rapidly in warm, damp areas and your storage facility could quickly become a nest of insects of every kind.

Temperature also plays an important factor in deciding whether or not to invest in climate control storage for your items. If you live in areas that are extremely cold then watch out for condensation that could lead to mildew and mold in damp belongings. Extreme heat is just as bad since this can lead to the permanent damage and destruction of computer disks, DVDs, CDs, and more. Many people who store their collections in extreme heat are shocked and disappointed when they discover that their entire collection has been completely destroyed after a few days in a storage unit subjected to 100 degree heat.

Climate controlled storage units are prefect for a variety of items be they valuable or made of high quality materials. There are some items that belong in climate control that most people would not realize need special care. Mattresses are one item that should be carefully stored in climate controlled storage units. Mattresses can rapidly mold and mildew when left exposed to the elements and with many fine mattresses costing more than 0.00 waste is not recommended.

Good clothing should never be stored in anything less than climate controlled storage units. Fine linens such as silk and velvet are especially vulnerable to deterioration caused by the weather. Heat can lead to discoloration while humidity and cold can cause moisture which will lead to molding and mildewing. Even if mold and mildew do not occur insects will often choose to nest in these fine materials making them dangerous to wear safely.

Musical instruments should never be stored in traditional storage units. Without climate control pianos and violin strings will begin to discolor and will often warp or break. The wood used to create these instruments will also start to warp, crack, and break. Thousands of dollars have been lost or wasted when valuable instruments have been ruined because of extreme weather.

Books and paperwork are also items that should always be stored in climate control storage units. Many people believe that books and documents will store anywhere but this is completely untrue. Without climate control documents will start to discolor making it difficult to read their text and puzzle out their meaning. This can be extremely frustrating when owners of book collections go to look for a favorite volume only to discover it has been ruined.

It is important that individuals looking into storage remember that climate control units are not just needed for fine china, antiques, and leather. Climate control storage is necessary to preserve important paperwork, good clothes, furniture, and really anything you own that is of any value.

Learn What Items Require Climate Control Storage

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Basement Bar - Prepare Your Space First Pt 1 - Moisture Control

Having a basement bar is a great idea. It's great for socializing, saving money on going out, organization, storage and they make a great conversational piece. Proper bars do have running water and require detailed planning and plumbing. The one thing people don't think about is the extra time they're going to be spending in their new, shinny basement area. They don't take into consideration a few things: Moisture control, and Air Quality.

If you're daydreaming about a deep mahogany wood bar with expensive bar stools, shelves and other costly items, you need to protect these things. Having a damp, moisture racked environment can only cause warping and mold damage over time to your new investment in fun.

Humidity Control

Foundation leaks, floor seepage and concrete leaks can lead to standing water, flooding and excess moisture in your basement. Water evaporates from this excess water and leads to excess moisture which then can slow down your AC and increase the amount you use a low efficiency dehumidifier.

Waterproofing your basement can lend to the total idea of moisture control in your basement space while protecting you from leaks and flooding. Controlling the moisture in your basement allows you to keep a more comfortable environment. Humidity can make the air harder to breath, grow mold, twist wood and organic material. Considering the amount of money that you're planning to put into your bar project it would be to your benefit to research waterproofing options to protect your space and optimize your air quality.

The bar and the moisture control will actually be huge steps into increasing equity and value in your home. You have a great idea, research to protect it.

Basement Bar - Prepare Your Space First Pt 1 - Moisture Control

Monday, November 14, 2011

Moisture Control & Measurement For Better Indoor Air Quality

The control of moisture inside a building or ones home is highly important. Moisture inside a structure can cause serious issues that initially may not be detected. Moisture can cause floors to buckle or crack, can cause mold & mildew, odors and unhealthy respiratory conditions. Dust Mites love warmth and high levels of humidity and they're also one of the top allergens. IAQ (indoor air quality) is highly related to the level of moisture in ones workplace or home and high moisture readings is also the leading cause of dwelling deterioration. There are many steps one can take to control moisture and ways to measure moisture. This article will briefly describe ways to prevent moisture and measure moisture.

Preventing moisture is simply not always an easy process. A small amount of moisture is healthy as not enough moisture can cause dryness in the skin and also cause poor respiratory conditions. Signs of excessive moisture in a dwelling can be pipes sweating, damp spots on ceilings, moisture on basement walls, ice forming on windows, mold & mildew growth on walls and many other things. Moisture is created by:

Humidity Control

Normal household conditions such as breathing, cooking, bathing, mopping floors and so on. A normal household produces 2-4 gallons of additional water vapor per day in a home from daily activities Temperature being kept to low in a home or building Poor ventilation Poor drainage around your foundation Clogged gutters

The following are some ways to prevent moisture:

Installing exhaust fans throughout ones home or building can significantly assist in lowering moisture levels in ones dwelling. Exhaust fans should be used when cooking and used when taking a shower. Cloths dryers should be properly vented and always clear the lint from the trap to lower moisture & prevent fires. Gutters should also be maintained as often as possible to assure proper drainage instead of the water sitting causing more moisture. Try to close as much air path leakages from indoor to outdoor. Caulk and use sealants around windows, doors and vents. In the winter if using a humidifier make sure not to close off the room or allow humidity level to get to high. Crawl spaces should be vented well and checked regularly for moisture as this can be a big cause of moisture inside a home. Check often and insulate well. Immediately repair leaky pipes Annual inspections and maintenance of HVAC unit Balance of temperature indoors compared to outdoors. Drastic changes of warmth inside in the winter with the cold outside and vice versa in the summer can cause moisture issues.

Measuring moisture inside a dwelling can be done a few ways. Typically individuals can live comfortably with 25-50 percent humidity and with the temperature between 66-72 degrees. Again the lower the heat or the higher the humidity can all add to the moisture in a dwelling. Humidity levels above 60% do overtime begin to affect ones health. Many tools are available to measure the humidity from consumer tools costing as little as to commercial products costing thousands. A decent tool like the Hygro-Thermometer Pen can be purchased for under a hundred dollars and this tool will simultaneously measure the temperature and humidity.

In summary it is highly important to address any moisture issue inside a dwelling. Proper steps should be taken to control and detect moisture. Proper control of moisture will significantly control any possibility of mold forming inside a dwelling which eventually destroys whatever it may grow on. Likewise by controlling the humidity level you'll also control moisture levels inside a dwelling and live much more comfortably. For further assistance please contact our service team to answer any questions or make any recommendations on chemicals, products or other steps you can take to achieve better indoor air quality with less moisture.

Moisture Control & Measurement For Better Indoor Air Quality

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Monitoring Temperature And Humidity Inside The Server Rack

The increased utilization of blade servers has caused the control of heat and humidity in the server racks to become much more critical than previously. These units increase the density of the equipment in each rack and therefore the heat generated. Alarms are necessary at the rack level because a single server overheating will not raise the ambient room temperature enough to set off the room alarm sensors. These rack alarms can provide early problem warning and prevent server damage and the associated network problems in a timely fashion.

These alarms can be at the rack, or by email, or by SNMP traps, or by all three methods depending on the system. There are several different types of sensor systems from several different manufacturers, available at present. One of them is a compact environmental monitor with one onboard temperature sensor and in addition the ability to support up to 16 remote sensors. The system is very small so you don't have to change your system. If you receive a problem alert, you are able to identify the rack and power strip having the trouble, and turn off the individual outlet or reboot it.

Humidity Control

Another power management and control system available is able to track temperature, humidity, airflow, and water at various locations from 15 to 100 feet away. This system needs only limited rack space and can control individual power receptacles. Another system on the market utilizes two sensor probes in each rack, one in front, one in back, to better measure the environment in the rack. This gives you a thermographic view of the temperature range in the rack and can be displayed in color for all the different racks in the computer center. This information can be used to determine the size and location of any additional A.C. or fans or blowers needed to correct a cooling system. It can also assist in the rearrangement, if necessary, of the rack layout and separation of a cold aisle/hot aisle system or any rack system, or when additional racks are added to a functioning system.

The control of heat generation and temperature in the data center continues to be one of the most critical areas. The monitoring of the environment has gone from the room, to the zone, to inside the individual server rack to give a much more precise picture of what is happening and allow better response to emergency conditions.

Monitoring Temperature And Humidity Inside The Server Rack

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Better Gardening With Aeroponics

There are many ways of cultivating vibrant, healthy plants indoors. One method that has gained attention of late is aeroponics. Surprisingly, this type of gardening requires neither a huge amount of space nor potting soil to yield impressive results. Aeroponic growing, however, does require specific supplies to create a suitable environment for seedlings and plants.

What is involved in aeroponics?

Humidity Chamber

While everyone is familiar with cultivating plants in soil, this gardening approach exposes the plants' root system to heavily misted air. The mist is not plain tap water, mind you, but rather a nutrient-rich solution. The roots absorb the nutrients readily in an aeroponics system-based environment and conduct them upward throughout the plant structure.

Although the root system is not submerged in either water or a growing solution, this method of plant cultivation is actually considered a variation of hydroponics gardening.

As you may expect, specific equipment is required to simultaneously contain and circulate this mist in a controlled environment. For this reason, an aeroponic system is often fully or partially closed. Such a design, some feel, also provides a barrier against pest infestation or the introduction of disease.

The low down on aeroponics systems

Equipment and complete systems for aeroponics growing are usually available from most locations that sell hydroponics supplies. While there are some similarities between components used for hydroponics gardening and air-based cultivation, they are not exactly alike. For this reason hydroponics supplies cannot be interchanged with aeroponics equipment.

A typical system includes some basic components. First an aeroponics system will include some sort of growing chamber. As mentioned, this chamber can be partially or completely enclosed so that it can control environmental conditions.

A pump mechanism is often included as well. Like hydroponics systems, these gardening environments require a fresh supply of nutrients. The pumping mechanism maintains the correct level of humidity in the growing area and ensures the airflow is active enough to prevent stagnant conditions.

A timing mechanism is also common in aeroponics gardening systems. While hydroponics systems maintain constant fluid levels by default, air based growing requires continuous misting in order to provide a stable growing environment. The timer insures that misting occurs at regular intervals so that growing conditions remain consistent.

Overall benefits

In addition to the convenience of having readily available produce from your indoor gardening efforts, this method of cultivation can provide a healthier crop than possible otherwise. Some feel there is less chance of disease and pest infestation in these gardens. Consequently, the use of pesticides is not necessary. This is particularly good news for gardeners preferring an organic crop.

Better Gardening With Aeroponics

Friday, November 11, 2011

Prevent, Control, and Kill Black Mold

People living in humid regions understand the pain of having mold in their homes. Black molds and mildews grow and develop in places that are moist, dark, untidy and moderately warm. Molds obtain food from dead organic substances. As soon as they found a humid surface they grow and start collecting nutrition from adjacent organic materials.

It's not necessary for them to grow on organic materials only. They often grow on concrete walls and obtain nutrition by degrading organic particles present on the surface or by eating on any adjacent food source.

Humidity Control

To prevent and control mold growth, you need to control moisture content inside your home. Here is a list of actions that help you arrest indoor mold growth.

Steps to control mildews and toxic black molds

1. Moisture is the main life factor; mold cannot grow, develop and reproduce in dry places. So keep your home adequately dry. Use dehumidifier to keep the moisture content low. Install Relative Humidity tracker that alerts you whenever moisture level tends to rise up.

2. Repair plumbing defects and water leakage as soon as possible. You have to keep your home and building dry - no excess water anywhere. So take care of leaky roof, pipe leaks and plumbing problems as soon as possible.

3. Next important factor for black molds to live, grow and develop is food. Make sure your home is neat and clean all the time. If there is no matter to eat, molds won't stay for long.

4. If your home or building is extremely prone to mold attacks, use properly formulated mold cleaning products as an added solution for regular housekeeping. General cleaners and sanitizers won't be helpful for removing mold permanently.

5. Make sure molds have not found their way into the ducts of your air conditioning system or ventilator. Growth at such places is difficult to figure out and the spores spread all over the building easily with the air flow.

6. Take care of your bathroom, kitchen, basement and crawl spaces; actually take extra care of these places as they are very much susceptible to mold growth. Keep the places dry and clean.

7. Install air purifiers to filter airborne particles. That helps you eliminate floating mold spores and hyphal fragments from indoor air. The quality of air that you inhale controls the health of you and other members of your family.

8. Mold-proof, basically moisture-proof paints are available in the market. These emulsions prevent moisture condensation and mold formation on walls.

Kill mold - Mold cleaning process

Once molds start spreading, you need to sketch your plan of action for mold cleaning and mold prevention.

Mold prevention and control process has been mentioned above. While following the instructions, conduct thorough mold cleaning process too.

Molds and mildews are not insects, nor are they pest. So instead of insecticide, pesticide, sanitizer or bleach, use mold cleaning products. Kill mold spray are easy to use and effectively kill black mold and mildews from your home and building.

If you feel lost, take help from professional mold removers of your city.

Prevent, Control, and Kill Black Mold

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Air Conditioning - Can Be Used to Remove Humidity and Dampness

Air conditioning has become quite popular among most people in all countries in the world. This appliance is specially imperative in countries where the sun shines brightly and hotly. It's seems like can't live without it since the weather is truly hot and dry outside.

When people think that using the air conditioning can make the temperature cool enough to live comfortably and pleasantly, then they're wrong. The exhaust gas of air conditioner would be truly harmful for the surrounding environment.

Humidity Control

New York Stock Exchange

The fame of air conditioning only rose in the early part of the twentieth century when it was used to ensure that the weather in workplaces was cool enough to allow the workforce to be more productive and work better. Later on, it was adapted for the use in homes and in offices.

In truth, the appliance of the New York Stock Exchange assisted boost the productivity of that August institution and this in turn resulted in making the economy lots more robust and productive as well. It did not take long time before the AC began to be more familiar and everyone that could afford it began to install air conditioners in their offices and homes.

Since the AC could help to remove humidity, it has undoubtedly found widespread acceptance in many countries that have truly humid and hot temperature conditions. However, an air conditioner is not very environmentally friendly and it also consumes lots of electricity.

In conclusion, the use of the AC can make the weather cool enough to live comfortably and pleasantly especially for people who live in extreme weather countries. Nevertheless, the use of air conditioning is not environmentally friendly since its exhaust gas can make the ozone layer become harmed. Also, the use of central AC is one way of making sure that you can enjoy greater relaxation and improve your productivity during the hot weather.

Air Conditioning - Can Be Used to Remove Humidity and Dampness

Monday, November 7, 2011

Benefits of Good Home Ventilation

While we need to seal our homes properly to reduce wasteful loss of heating and cooling, we still need good ventilation. Breathing fresh air is necessary to good health, so if our homes are not properly ventilated our health could easily be adversely affected.

Poor ventilation can cause a build up of allergens, mould and smoke- if you are a smoker or have a smoky fireplace. These and many other allergens can build up and cause respiratory problems for those who suffer from hayfever or asthma. Many people are allergic to dust mites that thrive in a humid climate, so proper ventilation is necessary to eliminate these pests.

Humidity Control

Mould can ruin paintwork, fabrics such as curtains and sofas and even make a home inhabitable if it gets really bad. Mildew and rot can also be the results of high humidity levels.

Humidity levels that are too low can also cause problems. Dry, itchy skin or nose and throat irritation can be caused by low humidity. Timber can dry out and crack due to low humidity; that means that your floor may be noisy when you walk on it. If you have a problem with static electricity, it could be that the humidity levels in your home are too low.

If you're loathe to give up your air conditioning, Advantage Air offers Fresh Air, a stand-alone or fully integrated product that works with your ducted air-conditioning system to give you both the comfort of air-conditioning and the freshness of outside air.

Benefits of Good Home Ventilation

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Crawl Space Repair in South Carolina Needs Moisture Control Not Venting

Many homeowners think that the best way to maintain a safe and clean crawl space is by having plenty of venting throughout the area. However, many homeowners and maybe even builders alike don't realize that venting is actually not all that beneficial-- if not detrimental.

South Carolina Crawl Spaces

Humidity Control

It's been estimated that 70 percent of the homes being built in South Carolina have crawl spaces. Since many contractors don't exactly want to put the extra time and expense into sealing and in other words finishing the space, most homes don't come with finished crawlspaces.

What could happen when it isn't sealed, insulated and finished with other beneficial products? Well, there's mold, mildew, condensation, termites, high radon levels, and other environmental problems.

If that list sounds like a lot, that's because it is a lot! Many homeowners are unaware of the influence the space has on their overall home environment but, the crawlspace-- or basement for that matter-- has a huge and vital effect on the home.

Encapsulated VS Vented

When encapsulated, it doesn't have any vents and this is what every homeowner should want and should have beneath their home. This will help control the moisture and thermal issues that many South Carolina crawl spaces experience throughout the year.

As many South Carolina homeowners are aware, mold and decay occur a lot more often than necessary. In fact, if it weren't for the condensation and high relative humidity, many of the issues would go away. So, how does condensation and relative humidity increase in the space?

Temperature

According to Craig DeWitt, PhD, PE, a specialist at RLC Engineering, LLC. and Larry Janesky, the owner and founder of the internationally recognized Basement Systems, Inc. network as well as CleanSpace Crawl Space Encapsulation System-- venting worsens the environment.

"Venting a crawl space actually makes it wetter. A sealed one has several advantages. First, it's dryer, decreasing the likelihood of mold and decay. In addition, wood is stronger when it is dryer, therefore the structure performs better. A decrease in moisture in the crawl space allows air conditioners to run more efficiently, since they have to remove less moisture from the air. Duct insulation also stays dry, maintaining the integrity of the insulation. Humidity levels within the crawl space and house are more uniform from season to season, creating less movement of hardwood floors, interior wood trim and cabinetry," said DeWitt.

Relative humidity, says Janesky, defines how much water is in the air compared to the amount of water the air is actually capable of holding at a specific temperature. So, let's look at an example of a typical hot and muggy day in South Carolina of about 90 degrees with 75 percent relative humidity. Then, let's say your crawl space is 70 degrees, and the surface temperature measured along your walls is about 66 degrees.

When air is pulled into a crawlspace through a vent, the air is then cooled because as we have deduced, the outside air is hotter than the inside air. Then, when the air is cooled by even one degree, the relative humidity rises by 2.2 percent.

Returning to our example, this means that 90 degrees minus 66 degrees is 24 degrees. So we multiply 24 degrees by 2.2 percent and this means the relative humidity will be increased by 48 percent. The once 75 percent relative humidity is now 123 percent.

What Does This Increase in Relative Humidity Mean?

Once the relative humidity is raised above 100 percent, the dew point, the excess humidity is then released in the form of condensation. So, your entire space is now very, very wet. Once it dries out, the mold and fungi will come in to destroy the wood and other organic material.

Oh, and what's the worst part? It's been measured that about a third to a half of the air on the first floor of a home actually originates in the crawl space. In other words-- whatever is in the space is in the rest of your home.

Repair-- The Moisture Solution

Moisture comes from the soil, walls and vents. As a vapor barrier works hard to limit the moisture in your crawl space, you should also consider having a repair expert to encapsulate the space and close the vents.

Crawl Space Repair in South Carolina Needs Moisture Control Not Venting

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Humidifier or Dehumidifier - Which is Right for You?

The humidity level within our homes is very important to our health, too much or too little humidity can cause everything from condensation and mold to dry skin and respiratory issues. Our homes and our bodies depend on the right humidity levels to stay strong and healthy.

Humidity is described as the water vapor levels that are in the air that we breathe. When the air warms up, the vapor levels drop. As the air becomes heavy with rain, the levels begin to rise. Either of these extremes causes us to become uncomfortable and more susceptible to illnesses.

Humidity Control

In the winter, the humidity levels tend to be low due to continued use of furnaces and other heating devices. When this happens, we are left with dry skin, lips and eyes, which are uncomfortable, but can be dealt with. However, for some people, especially the very young, very old or those already compromised by sickness, the dryer air can leave them more susceptible to respiratory issues such as bronchitis and asthma.

The use of a home humidifier will bring the air moisture levels to where they need to be. There are several types of humidifiers to choose. A popular type of devise works by warming up water from a reservoir tank, the evaporated water is then dispersed through the home with the use of a fan system. Another system utilizes a continuous mist or steam that is dispersed through the whole house, putting the needed moisture into the air.

A dehumidifier addresses the opposite problem. When the air that we breathe becomes saturated with water, we become uncomfortable, the air is sticky and it is harder to breath. The most common way to deal with this problem is with the use of an air conditioner, which literally sucks the water from the air. This effectively lowers the moisture levels and makes us more comfortable.

If an air conditioner is not an option, the next most common way to control high humidity levels is with the use of a bathroom or kitchen exhaust fan; these are the two places where high humidity levels are frequently found. The exhaust fan pulls the high moisture air out of the room, resulting in a more normal air/water level.

Another way to dehumidify the air in a house is with a dehumidifier. The use of a dehumidifier becomes important in areas of the house that never seem to dry out, such as the basement; or if someone in the home has allergies to mold. Most molds are very common and are not anything to worry about, except in the case of an allergy sufferer. In this case, a dehumidifier should be used in the bedrooms of the person with allergies as well as in or around the high humidity areas of the home.

Humidifiers and dehumidifiers can be found in a size that is right for every house, in fact for every room of the house. They are sold in a variety of stores from home improvement stores to discount chains, from drugstores to online vendors. If you are unsure if the use of a humidifier or dehumidifier is what is needed for your health issues, talk with your doctor, he or she will let you know if the use of one of these devises will alleviate your symptoms.

Humidifier or Dehumidifier - Which is Right for You?

Friday, November 4, 2011

Top Seven Tips For Natural Termite Control

Top seven tips for natural termite control

1. Remove termite food sources
Termites will eat any product that contains cellulose and some that do not. Inadvertently homeowners store all manner of belongings in areas that are easily accessible to termites, the worst place to store items is under your house. Often items are stored in cardboard boxes which themselves are commonly attacked by termites. When the boxes are placed on soil termites have easy access directly into them and their contents. Other commonly attacked items include such things as firewood, stored and waste timbers and furniture.

Humidity Control

2. Reduce moisture sources
There are many different reasons that excess moisture can build up under or next to a building. Leaking pipes are an obvious cause. Often the overflow from the hot water system has a constant drip and this makes for a large moisture source. Drainage and irrigation placed inappropriately can cause a moisture buildup. Gutters that are in poor repair allow moisture buildups. Termites need large amounts of moisture to keep the air in their workings high in humidity. The easier we make it for them to find moisture near our homes the easier termites will enter our homes.

3. Reduce soil levels
Often soil levels around the perimeter of houses are built up to the point that physical termite barriers that have been installed during construction are rendered inoperative. Termite entry to homes where soil or concrete levels are high, is often not detected until large amounts of damage have been done, this is because it is often at the entry point that termites are first noticed but when the entry point is covered by soil they will not be easily detected.

4. Improve ventilation
When ventilation under a home is poor, built up moisture that arrives via a variety of means (see tip number 2) has a very poor chance of drying out if the ventilation is not up to scratch. The theory behind successfully ventilating subfloor areas is that when dry air moves through an area of high moisture it picks up moisture and carries it away depositing it outside the area of concern. Terracotta vents that were put in place historically often do not allow enough air movement for the drying process to happen. The amount of ventilation required varies from building to building and is partially dependant on the terrain where it is constructed. Where this is the case the ventilation may need to be augmented by larger vents or even specially designed fans that will extract large volumes of air quickly and over a long period of time.

5. Improve access
Often when buildings are constructed there are small (and sometimes large) voids that are left with no access to them. This leaves us with several problems, firstly no ability to inspect these areas routinely with the rest of the home. Secondly, voids notoriously contain building waste, often formwork timbers and other items that provide a food source for termites. Finally, where voids are not accessible they are often poorly ventilated creating problems as pointed out in tip 4

6. Plan monitoring points
There will be high risk areas around your home that can be chosen as points to monitor for termite activity on a regular basis. E.g. a timber retaining wall is a huge monitoring point and the gaps between the timbers and at the joins of the timber will become filled with termite mud packing when activity starts. Stumps can be a good monitoring point (though they should preferably be removed) many stumps are used in gardens as a feature and end up covered in vines or other foliage or with a pot plant placed on top, remove the foliage to check along the grain for termite mud packing and make sure you move the pot plant and check under it!

7. Inspect, inspect, inspect.
There is no substitute for professional termite inspections, however if you educate yourself about termites, and the signs that you need to look for when inspecting, you can help to augment the inspection programme put in place by your inspection company. The more regularly that your premises are inspected the earlier any signs of termite activity can be picked up. There are many termite monitoring systems available on the market that can be installed and easily monitored by the homeowner, again the use of these systems augments a professional inspection regime.

Top Seven Tips For Natural Termite Control

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Home Inspection Tip - Plan For Radon Testing

Because radon gas seeping from the ground into a home is a health hazard, you should have the home tested for radon levels. This is true whether you're buying, selling or building a home. Your home inspector can do the test or help you find a professional who is qualified to do it.

Radon testing is something that must be planned for. It's necessary to decide where in the home the testing should be done and how long the test will take. No reputable tester can come into a home and test in 30 seconds or even 5-10 minutes. It takes a minimum of 48 hours to test accurately for radon. Some devices require a longer period of time.

Humidity Chamber

Your home inspector or other qualified radon testing professional should know the best place to put radon test equipment. It should go into the lowest level of the home that's occupied regularly, such as any place used as a bedroom, play or exercise area, den or workshop. The EPA says testing should not be done in a closet, stairway, hallway, crawl space or in an enclosed area where there's either high humidity or breezy air circulation. Avoid places like the kitchen, laundry room,bathroom or furnace room.

How long should a radon test take? Here are some considerations. Radon levels vary from day to day and season to season. That means a short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to tell you your year-round average radon level. However, if you need results quickly, a short-term test can be used to decide whether to repair the home.

Short term testing is the fastest, but the test equipment must remain in place for two to ninety days, depending on the device used. Two groups of devices are most commonly used for short-term testing-passive or active. The passive device group includes alpha track detectors, charcoal canisters, charcoal liquid scintillation detectors, and electret ion chambers. The active device group consists of different kinds of continuous monitors.

There are a couple of considerations to keep in mind when short term testing is used. Test accuracy is improved if two tests are taken at the same time. If you have two short term tests done, one right after the other, you'll get a better idea of the seasonal average for radon level readings. Both active and passive devices may have features to help to prevent test interference.

For long-term tests, the test equipment remains in the home for more than 90 days. Alpha track, and electret ion chamber detectors are most commonly used for long term testing. The advantage of a long-term test is that it will give you a reading that is more likely to tell you your home's year-round average radon level than a short-term test. If you're able to allow for 90 days or more to test, long-term tests can be used to confirm initial short-term results. According to the EPA, when long-term test results are 4 pCi/L or higher,the appropriate steps should be taken to repair the home to reduce radon levels.

The office in your state that deals with radon issues can help you and your qualified radon tester to decide on the best testing options.

Home Inspection Tip - Plan For Radon Testing